Travel

Top 25 Most Memorable Moments: My Year at the Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village

This past year I spent my time at the Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village in Rwanda as a 2014 Fellow. You may wonder what it exactly means to be a fellow. For many, this idea of volunteering in "Africa" is an escape from the “real world.” Some may even think that I took a year off. Wrong. Having worked since I was 16 years old, I can say with confidence that this has been the most challenging and most important line of work that I have done. No, I did not perform open-heart surgery, but I did work with 500 orphaned and vulnerable teens from the ages of 15-22 years. Stress, emotional trauma, financial constraints, death, power outages, water cuts, disease, and cultural differences are but a few challenges that I have encountered this past year. As I begin to think about the next phase of my life, I realize that I have experienced it all within one year at ASYV. This hasn’t been a year off, rather, as one fellow traveler put it, it has been my “year on.” For the past eleven months, I have done everything from making beds before the new students arrived to greeting the Prime Minister of Norway for the ceremonial opening of the solar field, the first in East Africa, located on ASYV property. Not only did the scope of work vary, but also the intensity of it ranged from chaotic to quiet. I loved every minute it.

As I write this now, I cannot believe that I no longer reside at ASYV. As soon as I left those gates, the whole year is now a collection of memories, experiences, new friendships and family. The ASYV graduates always say that one can never leave Agahozo-Shalom, but Agahozo-Shalom lives within you. They were right. I may be getting on a plane in a few minutes, but I have gained a new home, and more importantly, new family members.

Here is a list of the top 25 most memorable moments as an Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village Fellow:

1. Spending Christmas in Gisenyi. Before the new students arrived, we went to Gisenyi on Lake Kivu for a few days to relax and spend the holiday.

DSC00072

2. Meeting the new students for the first time and becoming part of the Aloysie Inyumba family. Aloysie Inyumba (1962-2012) was the Minister for Gender and Family Promotion up until her death. She was best known for her hard work as an RPF leader during the Genocide Against the Tutsi and her commitment to rebuilding Rwanda. 

3. Celebrating the New Year at the Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village (ASYV) with 128 new kids.

DSC_0152 4. Being told, “When I see you, I love you” from one of the girls in my family.

IMG_9884

5. Discovering $.30 pineapples and $.04 avocados at the local market in Rubona, a short walk from Agahozo-Shalom.

DSC00201

6. Watching the 2nd graduation ceremony for the Class of 2013. As of 2014, ASYV has 240 graduates

7. Laughing with my girls for the first time.

IMG_9486

8. Experiencing the tragic loss of the ASYV Founder and Visionary, Anne Heyman (1961-2014). 

9. Visiting my girls in their actual homes outside ASYV. ASYV staff visit the students during vacation periods to check on them and understand more about their backgrounds.

10. Commemorating 20 Years after the Genocide Against the Tutsi with Agahozo-Shalom students who were born during the Genocide.

11. Hosting the African Development Bank’s First Ladies and Spouses Event at ASYV.

12. Meeting the Prime Minister of Norway, Erna Solberg, at the opening ceremony of the first solar plant in East Africa on ASYV leased property.

ASYV Village Director, Prime Minister of Norway Erna Solberg, and Me

13. Working on the first ASYV fundraising event in Rwanda, Stand & Be Counted Rwanda, which raised almost $100,000. Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the actual event due to an illness in the family!

Photos by Ari Beser, 2014

14. Building my first home out of mud and water for a vulnerable family with the ASYV students through the Tikkun Olam program, Hebrew for “repairing the world.” All students learn the importance of Tikkun Olam and work on various community projects during their time at ASYV (and hopefully after).

15. Attending Village Time, a weekly talent show held every Friday in the Village led by the students.

16. Being a part of the Staff Village Time and debuting in my first parody music video from the Rwandan Urban Boyz' song "Marry Me."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h54rw786SaY

17. Driving through the countryside and seeing this beautiful place, Agahozo-Shalom, set in the rolling hills of Rwanda.

18. Having a picnic with the new grade and going on a boat ride with my family, some of whom it was their first time.

IMG_0738

19. Receiving poems and drawings from the kids and I cherish them more than anything else.

20. Exploring Rwanda and trekking to see the endangered mountain gorillas…AGAIN!

21. Waking up to this view every morning. 

View at Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village

22. Gaining new friends and family.

23. Having the privilege of seeing these smiles everyday.

IMG_9367

24. Saying goodbye (for now) to the girls whom I have grown to love this past year. 

25. Realizing that Rwanda is not just another travel destination. It is home and I certainly will be back again to visit family and friends. 

Aloysie Inyumba Family

My Love Letter to Prague

Dear Prague, Exactly one year ago, I left you for a new adventure, a new life. I packed my bags and boarded a plane headed to South Africa with the destination unknown.  You were the first place that I truly felt at home after leaving my small hometown in Ohio. You were special. You meant something to me. I spent almost five years of my life living in the most magical city in the world and I wanted you to know that I never took you for granted. I loved you whole-heartedly, despite your miserable winters and endless grey days.

Since leaving last June, I  have had incredible experiences that were beyond my imagination. I dove with great white sharks. I camped under the stars in the vast Namibian plains. I lived on a game reserve and woke up to wildebeest and giraffes near my doorstep. I stayed in a bee-hive hut in Swaziland. I spent the summer exploring the English and Scottish countryside. Above all, I accepted a fellowship to work with 500 orphaned and vulnerable youth in Rwanda at the Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village.

It's funny how time goes by so quickly and how things can change so drastically. This time last year, I had no idea that I would soon have the most meaningful job of my life. I was traveling around southern Africa with not a care in the world. Now, I care for 500 teens.

As I look back on my time in Prague though, I can't help but feel joy with a hint of nostalgia. You were my first great love and I will cherish you forever. You changed me.  You let me live and explore, and I am thankful for that. I have such wonderful memories of my years in Prague and not a day goes by that I don't think about you. Yes, I think about you often. This is not goodbye forever and maybe one day I'll return, but for now, thank you for being the most beautiful, most amazing city in the world. Thank you for letting me be a part of it.

With Love,

Your faithful cizinice

Here is a list of 25 things that I miss most about Prague:

1. I miss the cobblestone streets and breathtaking architecture.

2. I miss running to catch tram 17 to get to work. I don't miss slipping and falling on the ice when running to catch the tram.

3. I miss my colleague and mentor, Jiří Holub, who always had an answer for everything, and could say it in any language (photo of us in Austria for a student field trip).

4. I miss urban art and the city galleries. Luckily, I know the awesome artist who made the Beatles painting on the John Lennon Wall!

5. I miss the first snowfall on Charles Bridge.

6. I miss the Christmas markets with svařák (hot wine).

7. I miss the first sunny day after weeks of darkness.

8. I miss the beautiful parks and Petřín Hill.

9. I miss Maitrea, one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants.

Maitrea

10. I miss my neighborhood potraviny, or mini-market, run by the Vietnamese man who hardly said two words, in Czech or English.

11. I miss hopping on a train and ending up in a foreign country in a matter of hours (photo of Berlin).

12. I miss going on day trips to the Czech Republic's charming towns, interesting sights, and historic monuments. 

13. I miss Prague's quiet and no-nonsense airport. 

14. I miss the weekend events, from gorilla charity runs to food festivals in the park. 

15. I miss wandering around the Old Town Square and meandering through the Jewish Quarter.

16. I miss the beautiful vistas of Prague. 

17. I miss the $5 entry fees to some of the most beautiful ballets, operas, and concert venues in the world.

18. I miss Prague's rebellious, freethinking attitude with its regular protests (photo of a student protest in front of my old office).

19. I miss eating smažený sýr (fried cheese) on a bitter cold day.

20. I miss Prague's spring.

21. I miss the efficient public transportation system and the clean metro stations. 

22. I miss Prague nights and taking walks when the city is illuminated.

23. I miss the randomness in Prague, like salsa dancing at a bowling alley (No, I did not partake in this event).

24. I miss Zuzana Wienerova, my former colleague and friend, an amazing woman and an inspiration to all women. 

25. Last, I miss living in the most amazing city in the world.

The Future of Rwanda and the Faces of the Future

This April marks the 20th anniversary of the 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda where one million people were murdered in a matter of 100 days.  For many ASYV students, it is a traumatic part of their past and they are still healing from the terror that struck their nation, and the world. Even for the students who were born after 1994, the genocide had deep residual effects that touched the lives of all Rwandans. To remember this atrocious offense to humanity, Rwanda has held a series of events called, Kwibuka 20. In Kinyarwanda, kwibuka means "to remember." But Kwibuka is not solely meant to focus on the horror and despair of the genocide; it is meant to unite and bring hope to this small landlocked nation. According to the Kwibuka website, Kwibuka20 calls on the world to stand against genocide in three key ways: to remember, to unite, and to renew. I have lived in Rwanda for only four months now, but I have met some of the most inspiring and wonderful people at Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village. If you ever lose faith in humanity, all you need to do is spend a few minutes at ASYV. The youth that I know and spend everyday with renewed my sense of hope for the world. The genocide in Rwanda was a horrible event in world history and it should not be forgotten, but I want to focus on the future of Rwanda. The future of Rwanda will be determined by its youth. ASYV students range from mid-teens to early twenties and they are leaders, poets, innovators, and possess a keen desire to learn. The photos below depict ASYV students, particularly from the family that I mentor. These are new students at ASYV, but their faces and smiles show hope and strength. Kwibuka may be a time to remember the past, but these are the faces of the future.

Shopping Like a Local: Visiting a Rwandan Market

There is something romantic about grocery shopping in covered markets. The vendors, the chaotic arrangement of vegetables, and the community feel makes shopping an interesting experience. Whenever I travel or live abroad, I am always drawn to local markets. Perhaps because it is just that, local. I also feel a greater connection to my food when seeing it in the open air rather than neatly lined in a sterile-looking grocery store. The produce is fresh and real, unlike so much food found in America. Every Tuesday and Friday I have the opportunity to walk to a local market in the neighboring town of Rubona, approximately one mile from ASYV. Although all meals are included at the Village, I enjoy cooking some of my own. The walk to the market is pleasant and Rwandans are very friendly. It is customary to greet each passerby with mwiriwe, or good afternoon. Often, children follow closely behind me, giggling and whispering, muzungu, a term given to white visitors.

The market is an open-air space lined with people selling everything from goats to flour. Upon arrival, I am immediately offered tomatoes, cabbage, and any other produce that is available. I am always amazed by how incredibly inexpensive fresh produce is buy in Rwanda. I can recall paying $2.00 for avocados in Prague and in Florida, but in Rwanda, I pay less than fifty cents for three.

After perusing the aisles, I settle on a price for the produce. Here is a breakdown of food that I purchased (1 USD = 681 RWF, as of 2014):

Small Bananas          100 RWF

Basket of Tomatoes  100 RWF

Avocados (3)             300 RWF

Green Peppers (3)     100 RWF

Total                         600 RWF ($0.88)

These prices can also change slightly depending on one's bargaining skills. Compared to grocery shopping in Kigali, I find that the produce is fresher and half the cost. This food lasts a few days and it's delicious.

In addition to shopping at the local market, I also go to the grocery stores in Kigali to buy "junk food." To give you an idea about current 2014 market prices, here are a few examples:

Can of Diet Coke                                     900 RWF

Bottle of Coke or Fanta                         300 RWF

500g of coffee                                         2,100 RWF

1 liter of low-fat milk                             1,000 RWF

500g of pasta                                          1,900 RWF

Bag of tortilla chips                                1,900 RWF

Local gouda cheese wheel                     3,750 RWF

Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate bar      1,100 RWF

Large jar of peanut butter                     3,600 RWF

In general, I can find almost any food in Rwanda. It is more expensive to buy certain items (e.g. cheese and sauces), but the local fruits and vegetables more than make up for it.

Tikkun Olam: Repairing the World

Last Tuesday marked the first day of tikkun olam for Senior 4 (second year) students at Agahozo-Shalom Youth Village. Tikkun olam, or “repairing the world” in Hebrew, is a core component of the Village. The students volunteer not only to help their community, but also to heal their hearts. ASYV students undertake numerous projects, which vary per grade. Senior 4 students provide administrative support at a local health clinic, lead English-enrichment activities at a primary school, and build houses for vulnerable families in the community. Senior 5 students teach English and computer skills to local adults and children. Senior 6 students complete special projects each term and create a legacy project, such as building a community garden at a local hospital. But one of the most popular and powerful projects is building homes. To date, ASYV students have constructed twelve homes in the neighboring villages. Every year, the tikkun olam committee, comprised of ASYV staff, meet with local government officials to learn about the most vulnerable families in the surrounding area. The committee evaluates each family and chooses two to assist for the year.

Claudine and her four children were among the chosen. Claudine lives only a ten-minute walk from the gates of Agahozo-Shalom. Born in 1980, she is a single mother to four children. The father(s) are not present in the children's lives and their whereabouts are unknown. Only two children currently live with her. The eldest child left to find work and the other child went to live with a neighbor. She has a small plot of land given to her by her brothers and a small house constructed of mud and a tin roof. The current roof is riddled with holes leaving little shelter for the upcoming heavy rainy season. They are without running water, electricity, toilet facilities, furnishings, and often, food. Life is hard, to say the least, for Claudine who has few family members and no income to support her children.

When the ASYV students and I arrived to her home, we were met with open arms. Claudine was overjoyed to receive support from ASYV. Her children ran out of the house to greet us. Their clothes were tattered and caked in mud. Samuel, two and a half years old, laughed as ASYV students played with him and “Obama,” named after U.S. President Barack Obama, aged five, curiously watched the group survey the land. I tried to maintain my composure as I observed the seemingly hopeless existence of this family, but the pit in my stomach remained.

The first task was to assess the future building site of the house. With the assistance of ASYV staff, the students will construct a larger home with two bedrooms and a family room. The students wasted no time in getting to work. They mixed mud and water to create bricks to be used for the home. Each one is handmade using a brick mold.

In just two hours, ASYV students created 37 bricks, a small accomplishment for their first day in building houses. The goal for future visits is to make at least 100 per session. The sun was setting and the ASYV students recited a final prayer at the site before departing. The children waved goodbye and we slowly walked back to the Village.

But tikkunolam didn’t end on their departure from the site. The ASYV students were deeply moved by Claudine and her family. They noticed her lack of basic necessities, such as food and clothing, and they wanted to give her more than just a house. When asked about the importance of tikkun olam, Senior 4 student, Quinzaine replied, “It is good because I am repairing my world and I like to help the poor.” Many students at ASYV come from the same life as Claudine. In the next few weeks, the students will meet to discuss ways in which they can provide more assistance to Claudine and her children. Their goal is to not only provide a house for the family, but to create hope for a positive future.

Even in Rwanda, it is easy to forget what happens in life outside the ASYV bubble. The Village is a beautiful utopian space amidst an area rife with destitution. The landscape is nicely manicured, the houses are colorful and orderly, and it is a peaceful environment. Claudine lives only a ten-minute walk away and as I write this article, I am sitting in a furnished home with running water, electricity, and wi-fi. I sleep in a comfortable bed with a mattress and bedding. Claudine and her children sleep on the cold ground with a threadbare sheet.

Despite the extreme poverty found in Rwanda, I am hopeful. It is extraordinary to watch so many young Rwandans help those who desperately need it in their community. The ASYV students possess a remarkable desire and willingness to help. Their passion is contagious and I truly believe that they are repairing the world, one house at a time.

Note: All photos of children were taken with verbal permission from the parents. 

When I See You, I Love You

On December 28, Agahozo-Shalom gained 128 new students, wide-eyed and eager to learn. But these weren't just any students. These 128 represent the most vulnerable youth of Rwanda. Before their arrival, the recruitment team performed site visits to the schools as well as their homes to determine who would be able to come to the Village. Selection is not based on grades or test scores, but how vulnerable a teen is.  It is by no means an easy process. Having gone through a careful selection process, these students truly represent Rwanda’s struggling population.

December 28 was the day the ASYV staff and I had all been waiting for. That was the day I would meet my new family, 16 new girls who would call me “Cousin” for the next year (and perhaps in the future). I waited in the reception area for their arrival. Busloads of children and guardians poured out of the vans, all carrying the possessions they owned. Some carried trunks; others carried small backpacks.

As all 128 finally filtered into the Village, ASYV held a reception and ceremony to welcome the new students. In the afternoon, we all went to the basketball courts, where the new students would be placed into families with a Mama and a Big Sister or Big Brother. They would live with these other girls or boys and a Mama for the next four years.

As my turn came up, I walked on the court with my Big Sister and Mama. We waited until the speaker called all 16 names and they came on the court. We hugged and took a group photo. After the ceremony, the remaining guardians and students walked with us to their new home. The guardians inspected the rooms to ensure everything was okay, we sat down and Mama talked to all of them. After feeling content, they slowly trickled out.

Finally, we were alone at last. Over the next few days, it was full of awkward pauses, silence and trying to get the students adjusted to Village life. I have never dealt with 16 teenagers before, let alone orphans and vulnerable youth. After dinner, I walked back with a few girls to their home. One had her arm around my waist. As we were about to approach the house, she looked up at me and I could tell she wanted to say something, but struggled to speak. She gave a sigh as if she were about to cry and said, “When I see you, I love you.”

If I had any doubt about my decision to move to Rwanda, it quickly disappeared. It was at this moment that I fully realized why I was here, to give love. I have lived in the Village for almost two months now and when I look at all of the ASYV students, I think to myself, "When I see you, I love you."